Living There
In Istanbul, the district of Beyoglu stitches together the neighborhoods of Galata, Karakoy, Tophane, Cihangir, and Cukurcuma into a mosaic of Turkish and European identities. Geographically, Refik Saydam Avenue, Tarlabasi Boulevard and Taksim Square define the northwestern limit and the shores of the Golden Horn and the Bosphorus the southeastern limit of Beyoglu.
Historically, Beyoglu carries the legacy of more than 2,000 years of human settlement, Karakoy’s Jewish merchants of the early Byzantine era, Galata’s Genoese merchants of the late 13th century, Tophane’s mariners and cannon ball foundry of Mehmet the Conqueror, and the Ottoman Empire’s European consulates and trading centers moving economic power from the Grand Bazaar to Istiklal Avenue. This rich depth of geographical and historical influence evokes a lot of questions to ponder on a walk through Beyoglu.
As a resident of Istanbul for the last three years, I have discovered my favorite walks, sights, sounds, and tastes of Beyoglu. Most importantly, good views give the best orientations to the layout of the city so start at the top of the hill. At Taksim Square, named after the stone water reservoir, walk or take the nostalgic red tram down Istiklal Avenue, a pedestrian-friendly French promenade. Pass the green gates of Galatasaray Lycee, an elite high school and a popular meeting place.
At Tunel Square, named for its historic rail line tunnel, walk downhill at Galipdede Avenue, stopping to visit the whirling dervish exhibit and Sufi Islam cemetery at Galata Mevlevihanesi, the red brick interior and rooftop of Caribou Coffee, juice stands, and music shops until you finally reach Galata Tower. This is the oldest visible remnant of the early Ottoman era – view it in the daytime and go to the Marmara Pera Hotel at night for a bird’s eye views of the skyline. Here you could stay at Galata Place, one of several charming rental apartments in this part of Istanbul.
Walking up and down this steep hill always makes me hungry and thirsty. The most cozy breakfast nooks are located in Cihangir, an upscale bobo, or bourgeois bohemian, neighborhood linked to Taksim Square via Siraselviler Avenue. There are many great options for kahvalti, a Turkish breakfast of eggs, cheese, olives, cucumbers, tomatoes, jams, and nut spreads.
Savoy Pastanesi at 181 Siraselviler Avenue adds marinated red peppers, olive paste, and red pepper and walnut spreads to the breakfast options. Van Kahvalti Evi at Defterdar Yokusu, which links Cihangir to Tophane, serves overflowing baskets of fresh bread with black sesame seeds. Kahve 6 at 13 Anahtar Street feels green with indoor plants and a backyard garden, and keeps lor cheese with purple mulberry sauce on the menu. Just a short walk away leans a staircase, covered in discarded Efes bottle caps and broken glass, to Cihangir Park with a great view of the Bosphorus.
Art galleries feel quiet and introspective in the early afternoons and lively with wine and artsy folks at the exhibit openings. Start at Turnacibasi Street, which connects to Istiklal Avenue. The Pirosmani Art Gallery, named after Niko Pirosmani, a self-educated Georgian painter, at 11 Turnacibasi Street often exhibits Georgian and Japanese artists.
Gama Gallery at 21 Turnacibasi Street exhibits local Turkish and European artists. Salt Beyoglu at 136 Istiklal Avenue has a winding marble staircase to modern art and photography exhibits, an indoor vegetable and herb garden, and the Robinson Crusoe bookstore.
From Galatasary High School, walk downhill to Tophane. On this hillside, the sounds of bells ringing from the Church of St. Anthony of Padua on Istiklal mingle with the calls to prayer blasting from minaret speakers at the Kilic Ali Pasa Mosque in Tophane. In the early morning, you can hear horns from the ships on the Bosphorus. Both the Pg Art Gallery at 76 Bogazkesen Avenue and the Mixer Contemporary Art Space for Emerging Artists at 45 Bogazkesen Avenue frequently rotate their exhibits of paintings, drawings, and sculptures and attract local hipsters and expats into the otherwise blue collar, mariner, and conservative Muslim neighborhood.
When I feel hungry for lunch or dinner near Istiklal, my top choice would be the affordable and delicious Caucasian potato or meat ravioli, fava bean square, and chicken and walnut spread at Ficcin at 13 Kallavi Street. When I crave Turkish home cooking of beans and rice, I go to the slow communal tables at Helvetia at 24 Yazgan Street near Asmali Mescit and Tunel Square or the fast line of soups and salads at Ehlitat Lokantasi at 21A Balo Street near Tarlabasi Boulevard.
As a special treat with a group of friends, we enjoy the Persian saffron rice and pomegranate sauce meats at Reyhun Iranian Restaurant near Galatasaray High School at 8 Yeni Carsi Avenue. Tahdig, the crisp rice at the bottom of the pot, most likely disappears by dinnertime.
